Dispatches from the American Southwest

Two days into a trip to Texas and New Mexico, we have quickly discovered that the southwest is truly an area like no other in our country, and we are thrilled to be here. Among the unique aspects of the region, we are particularly fascinated by the local topography (and the geography, geology and climate that combined to create it), as well as the area's art, architecture and cuisine.

Our southwestern journey began yesterday with a flight itinerary that departed far too early in the morning from Dayton but that, on the upside, delivered us in El Paso by early afternoon. Other than taking advantage of a free night's reservation at the Remcon Circle La Quinta Inn on El Paso's west side, we had no other plans for the rest of the day, which we too frequently forget can be the very best way to travel.

Upon checking in at the motel, we discovered several terrific things. For starters, the beyond budget-friendly La Quinta (had we actually paid, it would have been under seventy bucks) was an all around awesome place. It was updated inside and out, the staff was super friendly, and our big and bright king room (with a huge bathroom) was not only spotlessly clean, but also came with several unexpected amenities like free wireless, a fridge and microwave. We also quickly discovered that the very pretty pool area was completely deserted and that fact, combined with the sunny and warm west-Texas weather, dictated that we do nothing all afternoon but sip cocktails poolside.

As the sun was setting, we realized we'd been up for nearly nineteen hours, and so we opted to grab a quick dinner at a Mexican place next door that I would like to call forgettable. Unfortunately, it was so horrendous that we are not likely to forget it anytime soon. But, live and learn...and perhaps the fact that there was not a single car in the parking lot at dinner time should have been our first clue. In any event, by the time we fell into bed an hour later, we were already laughing about the meal. (In my opinion, the top two things that any well-prepared traveler should not leave home without are flexibility and a sense of humor, although that can at times be easier said than done.)

We awoke the next morning to another gorgeous, sunny day and set off to explore the El Paso area. Our first stop was downtown, at the El Paso Museum of Art.


This museum, where admission is free, was a pleasant surprise. One of its five permanent galleries features Mexican art from the 17th to 19th centuries, which we enjoyed immensely. Another gallery holds European paintings dating from as early as the 13th century, and we were awed by the some of the Renaissance pieces that are over six hundred years old. Additional display areas featured more contemporary works, such as the sculpture gallery pictured below.


While downtown, we also stopped in at the Camino Real Hotel, located in an historic 1912 building. The main draws there were the impressive two story lobby, done up in polished dark wood and marble, and the fabulous Tiffany stained glass dome that tops the bar and restaurant area.

Following our downtown visit, we left the city behind and headed west to Franklin Mountains State Park to get a close up look at the spectacular local landscape. At first glance, the vast stretches of mountainous desert appear rather colorless and bleak, but we soon found ourselves completely amazed by its stark beauty. In the same pristine light that inspired Georgia O'Keefe to paint in the southwest, the subtle tans, browns and rusts of the rugged mountains and rocky land seem almost vibrant, accented as they are by the lovely sage greens and silver grays of the desert plants and then crowned by the brilliant blue southwestern sky. Photographs simply do not do it justice, but we still snapped away, hoping for some pictures that will, at least in part, memorialize the remarkable natural scenery we experienced first hand.





We then drove the short distance to Las Cruces, New Mexico, where we shall stay for the next four days. Awaiting check-in at our place of lodging, we spent the afternoon strolling the neighboring village of Mesilla. This little town is full of charm and, like so many places in the southwest, beautifully reflects the influence bestowed historically on this region by a combination of Indian, Mexican, Spanish and Anglo-American cultures. The buildings are centuries old, the people are warm and welcoming, and there were examples of the area's rich heritage to be viewed at every turn.

Through Mesilla, we walked and we shopped and we also made up for the prior evening's disastrous meal by dining at La Posta. This fun, funky and affordable restaurant, housed in an adobe building constructed in the 1840s, features some fine examples of the local cuisine.

Call it Tex Mex, call it Regional Southwestern, call it anything you want. But, please, combine perfectly prepared meat and/or beans, garnish with a few fresh and flavorful ingredients, serve it in, on or with homemade tortillas, and just don't call us late for dinner.

Our last stop of the day was at an amazing pottery yard that we stumbled upon, located on the outskirts of Mesilla.

There, the rows and rows of wares for sale were yet another wonderful example of the simplistic but stunning beauty that seems to be so representative of the American southwest. Following our first couple of days here, suffice it to say that we are very much looking forward to the rest of our stay.